Our Lady of the Snows

My first good view of it from fifty miles south along I-5 

“When I first caught sight of Mount Shasta over the braided folds of the Sacramento Valley, my blood turned to wine, and I have not been weary since.” — John Muir, 1874 

Mt. Shasta from halfway between
 Dunsmuir and Mt. Shasta Town. 

     I settled into an apartment in Dunsmuir, rented for a month, a quiet place among big trees.  This morning, I set out to learn from local climbers.  I bicycled to the town of Mt. Shasta, taking pictures of the looming mountain from various angles along the way.  It’s so often hiding in clouds, like  a temperamental friend, that I was happy to find it, on my first day in its company, almost completely open and forthright.

     From this angle I can see most of the route I will be climbing.  The first campsite will be in the trees near the bottom of the picture, just below timber line.  The wide valley in the center of the picture is called  Avalanche Gulch.  I’ll ascend it to about the middle of the picture and camp on a flat place called Helen Lake, frozen and covered with show.  On the third day, I’ll continue up Avalanche Gulch and turn right toward the ridge, then left along the ridge to the summit. 

     Soon I was amazed to find a place in Mt. Shasta Town where the final ascent is clearly visible.  From the head of Avalanche Gulch, I'll turn right and head for the thumb-shaped rock you can see clearly on the ridge, rightly called Thumb Rock.  Before reaching it, I’ll veer left and go around the outcrop of rocks which slopes up to the left.  It is called The Red Banks, and I will get above it to head left, ascending the ridge.  That slope is called Misery Hill.  I have no idea why, except that reaching its top I will be nearly at the summit. 

Painting by Jennifer Middleton

     During my reading for this adventure I ran across the painting shown at the left.  From one place on the bike ride today I could not escape thinking of it.  Perhaps Jennifer Middleton set her easel near the place where I took this picture.  The likeness is striking.  

Lily's Café in Mt. Shasta Town, 
enjoying the face of my new friend, 
Our Lady of the Snows.
 May our meetings always be this pleasant.

     I stopped at Fifth Season Sports Store because the man there can tell me everything about climbing Shasta; several people have told me that.  Seeing my age and shape, he gave a skeptical look and asked if I’d like to hire a guide.  But after hearing my plan, he said I had done good research and if I was in good shape he figured I can make it, but not for a few days.  “Why?” I asked “I want to begin tomorrow.”  “There’s a big storm coming with high winds; I wouldn’t advise it,” he said. 

     Disappointed, my next stop was the ranger station, where I asked for a permit to climb Mt. Shasta.  The ranger said she will sell me a permit, but that I should not go for a few days.  Winds are forecast at 115mph on Sunday, with 100 percent chance of snow on Monday, she said.  I told her that I am crazy, but not stupid; I can wait.